2012/3 France

In the Garonne we continued our ‘Flat Biking (as opposed to mountain biking) with rides up and down the ‘Voie Verte,’ as France calls its cycle ways.  Alongside the Garonne Canal, it’s certainly a special route, running all the way from Bordeaux to Toulouse, the top half of the Canal du Midi.  There is no stopping Joanna now, fitted with a speed, distance, computer to record the day’s outing .  One day biking for a memorable lunch in a small town, canal bridges to cross.   Another ride  to discover an ideal overnight parking for Stan next to a boat hiring yard at the junction of the canal and the Baise river, called Buzet sur Baise.  With Stan we visited several of the villages along the Baise river.  Villages such as the Vianne, a Bastide village set out in a square with walls and four gates, Lavardac, Barbaste and Nerac – all very interesting places on the river, with locks, flour mills, old bridges etc. The Baise river is navigable beyond Condom.  Yes we visited Condom – no jokes this is a blog not a French Letter.  Again an interesting city where we stopped and rode our bikes into town and where we undertook one of our PR walks.  However the day turned very hot and we missed the track signs in a couple of places and ended up very dehydrated and exhausted, to find the tarmac  in Stan’s park had melted leaving tar everywhere we trod. This region is the centre of the Armagnac, although a favourite of David, it was no solution to our dehydration. We can recommend the Baise as a one week canal cruise, up to 130km and 40 locks return providing more villages per km on a river compared to a canal (but no flat biking).

A feature of the SW of France are the ‘pigeonniers’ which apparently are (or were) a sign of status.  Attached a post card photo of a selection. They provided a much sort after fertiliser.  Not sure we could put up with the noise – David would like to combine it with a ‘cuckooerie’ to keep the pigeon population in check, but getting cuckoos to NZ and reprogramming their GPS maybe too hard.

We continued along the Garonne a bit further, as far as Moissac (magnificent, very old abbey with beautiful cloisters.) Decided we had had enough of canals and rivers and time to head south for the mountains. All along the way have been finding walks and bike rides that get us out into the countryside. Fantastic and the  thigh muscles are becoming quite defined.

We explored Pau and Lourdes on foot. It is amazing that we are allowed to stay overnight in the main square at Pau.  Teamed up with a young English girl, Jenny with her dog Flip, travelling on her own in a van that she converted herself. Very gutsy and resourceful. We decided to have a better look at Lourdes this time. We were amazed at the size of the place and the number of pilgrims.   Jen acted as our tour guide around Pau, then joined us for several days of hikes and bike rides in the Gaves Valleys – the Cirque de Gavarnie by a circular route round both sides of the valley, Troumouse and d’Estaube (although this one was in thick mist, and we had to listen politely to two locals who spent most of their walk  pontificating about cheese).  Then onto Pont d’Espagne, saw the pont, but rain spoilt anything higher up on this trip), Arrans Massous (great walk to the Pic de Predoucet), and so on. Much of the walking is on the famous Grande Route 10 that runs along the Pyrenees from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean.  The weather has not always been good to us but we have tried to keep going . The scenery is magnificent, when we can see it . Also enjoy spotting the marmottes.

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We continue to make good use of the network of ‘aires’ (overnight parking areas for camping cars) which are often free with only a few Euro for fresh water etc., morning bread close (David has become a ‘baguette’ a day man). In fact the proximity of the local boulangerie  plays a very important part in where we spend the night.

Other good news is that the TV is working brilliantly now. Unfortunately it has yet to have the beneficial effect on Joanna’s French that she hoped for. However keeps us up with the weather forecasts, (usually depressing) and other news.  Actually my French is improving, not the grammar, but the vocab and willingness to give it a go. I learn new words every day – gets easier.  Am an expert on hiking vocab.

Moved valleys across the precipitous but stunning Corniche road between the Cols du Soulor and d’Aubisque. Wow, scary stuff. Did a 2 day walk round the Pic du Midi d’Ossau, with a night in the refuge d’Ayous. This refuge is in a beautiful spot above a lake.  All spectacular stuff, Joanna constantly way out of her comfort zone, clambering her way up through boulder fields, up to 2320 metres – 1000 vertical metres in a day. Way too much for me. It’s the going down that is the problem. On and on. Will take days for the muscles to recover. However was magnificent and lucky with the weather. Finished David’s walk schedule with the famous Chemin de la Mature, cut into a cliff face in order to transport  trees for navy masts  and Crevasse d’Holzarte with its suspension footbridge 150m above the gorge .  Both precipitous.  All this wet weather has brought out huge numbers of the enormous black slugs that seem to inhabit the forests of France. Stepping on one of them is almost more scary than the vertiginous bluffs that David keeps finding for me.

Time for a rest, did one of our sudden plan changes and decided to head west instead of east. Time to see the sea. A stop at St Jean Pied de Port, where the pilgrims all gather to pass into Spain. The GR10 also passes through here so crowds of hikers. Have now arrived at Capbreton on the coast, just north of Biarritz. Huge surf beach, blue sky, good forecast for tomorrow. Might even have first swim of the summer! An amazing coincidence. We met some Kiwis here, Rick and Kathy, only the 2nd NZers we have met on this trip. Turns out that Rick’s parents built and lived for many years in what was our first house in Ngapuhi Road.

Had the swim, bike rides around the town and Moules a l’Ancienne at the port. Brilliant. In fact although we don’t often eat out since with fresh bread, cold meats, pate and salad for lunch then Joanna’s great dinners with duck, andouillette, etc etc we can eat well and save!!  However there have been some memorable meals both bad (nice village square after the Chemin des Mature) and at the refuge (great spot but forget the food). The good ones, lunches beside the Garonne canal and two others in  village squares as part of our bike rides.

Off north tomorrow.