2011/9 Towards Calais

First stop in northern Spain was at the little coastal town of Boiro. A great spot right by the beach. We were amazed in the morning to see all these folk (mostly ladies), dressed in waders and carrying rakes and buckets, assemble which we assumed to clean the beach, but no they  launched into the low tide and collected cockles – hundreds of them of them. Can’t imagine how there are any cockles left. Then on round the coast to Santiago de Compostella ,the site of the most famous pilgrim trek in western  Europe. Very popular, we saw many pilgrims along the various routes that lead to Santiago. To be part of the scene we thought we should have been dressed in hiking boots and a back pack to collect a certificate of pilgrimage for Saint James (if you have completed at least 200 km on foot).  The gold on the cathedral altar was certainly impressive. It is a lovely city, but we had the first rain we had seen in months and much cooler temperatures – a bit of a shock to the system.

 

Thence along the north coast with stops at some fine beaches and pretty fishing  villages. We noticed the changes as we moved into Basque country. Road signs are the first thing, but then we could hear people speaking something different and all the other nationalistic sort of things – flags, traditional costume. It was less obvious in Basque France – seemed more of a tourist thing to us but could get into trouble for saying that.

 

Met up with son Nick and friend Tarrant in Bilbao following their visit to the three day music festival there and of course Pamplona before that. The obligatory visit to the Guggenheim Museum where  we were certainly impressed with the building but not the  modern art therein. With Stan loaded with the boys and their packs we continued along the Basque coast into France in not so good weather arriving at Saint Jean de Luz. Great camper van stop very close to town and beach. Joined in the 14th July celebrations with ‘bal’ in the square on the eve and the day plus double  firework display. Also while there, a quick train trip to nearby Biarritz with its impressive beach backed by the casino, palace hotel and other noble buildings with a fine beach covered, wall to wall with bodies. A surprisingly warm Atlantic sea to swim in.  The good thing about all these Atlantic beaches is that they are not reserved for those who hire a sun umbrella and ‘chaise long’.

 

 

Now the count down is on as the Channel ferry has been booked for early on the 21st July. Headed inland to show the boys a bit of medieval culture and pretty French villages in the Dordogne, Vezere and Dronne river valleys. It is now into French holiday time, so of course maximum tourist congestion. The decidedly average weather conditions of low 20s and frequent rain showers (a bit like Auckland) have probably kept a few away so we are coping better than expected. It is fun having the boys with us and we are all keeping very calm about the lack of  space, especially when it rains. The usual supermarket visits have increased because food consumption in Stan has more than doubled and we only have a small fridge.

 

We finished our trip with a sobering visit to the village of Oradour sur Glane, near Limoges. It was the victim of Nazi  reprisals for Resistance activities. Most of the residents were rounded up and killed and then the village gutted. It has been left as it was on the day, with car hulks and household items lying around, as a memorial and a reminder of the horrors of war.

An overnight at La Touquet and then along the coast to Calais, which we are getting to know well. The supermarket for a wine stock, cheese, duck, black sausage etc and a meal out in town before leaving our parking place on the quays, listening to the engine beat of the ferries all through the night.  Up early to catch a ferry at the lowest cost, and back to driving on the left for the first time in 5 months.

Now back with sister Maureen in Hastings with Stan cleaned and polished. Tasting good English beer and the fresh fish and chips on the waterfront of the old town.

Will visit Joanna’s niece in London and a final meal with all David’s family at the weekend before the three days in the  40 degree temperatures of Dubai.  One only full day in Auckland and we will pick up Katie in Dunedin and head to Wanaka and the snow.

Stan the Van in for servicing after 13,000 km + brakes + prop shaft bearing etc etc

 

End of blogs for 2011 a great and interesting trip.

2011/8 Portugal

Had a wonderful crossing through the Straits of Gibraltar – calm, clear a wonderful view of The Rock – unlike on our way over. Never mind that we had to spend 6 hours waiting on the wharf for the ferry because they had the wrong time on our ticket – as the official said we had a house to wait in – no problem. We celebrated our arrival back in Europe with trips to Carrefour and Lidl, with a night in the Carrefour car park.

We binned Plan 1 of visiting Jerez and other sherry making towns – just too hot - and bought a few bottles at the supermarket instead. Not quite the same ambience, but the same outcome. David thinks we have an unhealthy relationship with hypermarkets – but they offer such a lot – not the least being air-conditioning. We always find something that we need/want, David bought a whole jamon today. Should last through till our trip next year! David notes that we go shopping with a food list but usually exit with an  item of clothing, Joanna’s response is that he should be lucky it’s at a supermarket and not from more upmarket venues. 

Plan 2 was a couple of days in the campground at Seville – lovely pool, wifi, bread in the morning, Carrefour down the road. We are taking the time to plan our route through Portugal because in our usual manner we haven’t thought about it up till  now.

Motorway to Portugal lined with Oleander in flower and fields of sunflowers. At the border we collected and attempted to digest lots of info on the beaches of the Algarve complete with book of beach photos and directions – off we set. First choice Tavira with a neat old town and a long beach on the ocean side of a lagoon as per most of the resorts on the eastern  end of the Algarve. Thence Olhao, a small port and on to Lagos (avoiding Faro and Albufeira). Here were the beaches David was looking for – small bays enclosed by cliffs where the weather has carved out all sorts of shapes, caves and isolated rock formations in the sea, beaches all quite close together. A pattern of a beach swim in the morning, lunches in town which included the famous fish stews and the salted  cod, egg and potato dish. Then a different beach in the late afternoon/evening.  The guide book warns of the tourist invasion but we must be too early (thankfully) and only a reasonable number to liven up the towns. Tourists mainly British, so all menus in English with inducements like happy hour large beers (taken) and ‘full English breakfasts’ etc (ignored).  

Have been noticing masses of salted cod in the shops since we were in southern France. It is really popular in Portugal so had to try it – delicious. We were also keen to try the hearty stews that are so famous here. In a small mountain cafe we spied a picture advertising a delicious looking stew, ordered it, consumed it with relish. We tried to find out what meat it was but there was no English spoken. With a few animal noises and pointing to parts of the body we discovered they were turkey gizzards. Not really what you would expect as the Dish of the Day. Have heard of them, but never really knew what they were. Still don’t, but they are delicious and taste a bit like tongue with texture.

Further west as the beaches get more remote and wild towards Sagres, the SW point of Portugal (and Europe). We stopped off at Burgau (not impressed) Salema (enjoyed), Ingrina (good) and Beliche. Up the west coast the beaches are wilder and remote allowing campervans to stop and stay wherever.  Our last stop was Odeceixe, a beautiful and till now unspoilt beach with ocean beach and lagoon.  Our overnight stops besides camping grounds have included some top beauty parks overlooking the beaches at Barril (Tavira), Senhora da Roche (Lagoa),Ingrina and Odeceixe. Our Algarve Beach Guide was a brilliant investment – photos clearly showed which was a rocky cove (for David) and which was a long stretch with miles of umbrellas and loungers which cost the earth. Kiwi to the core – we can’t bear to pay to use anything on the beach – except the restaurants of course. We still have our 5 euro umbrella from several years ago and beach mats. Have now invested in a little plastic screw device that digs deep in the sand to put umbrella into. Amazing. It is so wonderful we want lots more to take home, but can’t find them –of course! It’s interesting – total lack of interest in all the usual souvenirs – all we want are the plastic screw in the sand umbrella things and we can’t find them!!

   Through the marble towns of Estremoz, Vila Vicosa and Evora to Lisbon. Parked on the south bank with a ferry across to the main town. However day one not good – Joanna’s credit cards and spare van keys pick pocketed or lost somehow – our concern that it may have happened on the ferry and Stan the van would be gone by the time we had realised the loss and crossed back – but all is well, cards cancelled and now careful with remaining key and alarm remote.  Enjoyed the town with ferry, hop-on bus, vintage trams, ancient lifts and cable cars plus lots of walking.

North again up the coast via Obidos to visit the Batalha Abby and then at Tomar the Convento de Cristo the seat of the Knights Templar, which was very interesting with its exaggerated decoration of columns, windows etc with marine motifs (rope etc). There are so many castles and monasteries to see, we are just picking out a few.

Finally found quaint little villages and beautiful countryside in the Douro Valley – Port wine  country. Just stunning. We left Stan for the day and caught the train, heading downstream halfway to Porto. The train runs right along the riverside – tunnels, bridges, placid river, wonderful. The undulating hills all terraced and planted with grapes. To be recommended. Drove along some of the river next day and on seeing the price of Vintage Port at the wine tasting decided to do our usual tasting by buying at the supermarket

Moving north has become a bit of a hassle because they have a motorway payment system which involves hiring a box that you load money into for payment. Means we can’t use the motorways which normally is not a problem, but Portugal has invested HUGE amounts of EU money (hence its huge debt) and has neglected the other routes. Consequently the minor routes are long and tortuous, pretty but slow and tiring to drive.

Final couple of Portuguese nights in a camping ground with swimming pool (after a week in camper parking only)set high above the town of Guimaraes. A cable car 400m vertical down to the town only a few minutes away. Very pleasant town to wander round with lots of fine building, lots of granite, and a European Culture town 2012.

And so to Spain again.

2011/7 Marrakesh & Atlantic Coast

Well Marrakesh was an active two days. Managed to find another of these parking spots where camper vans can stay overnight, behind the Koutoubia Mosque, only 5 minutes from the main square (where everything happens) and a very quiet spot, watched over by three storks nests.                      The main square Djema el Fna was all action  especially as the first night was a Friday (always crowded with locals just strolling) but also because of THE big football match on Saturday night against the neighbours Algeria. In addition to the square filled with stalls selling ‘stuff’, there are snake charmers, cages of chameleon, ‘henna’ tattooists, monkeys, fortune tellers, fruit stalls and evening eateries, there were the young making football whoopee with flags, hooters, horns.  On Saturday they drove around the streets sitting on top of cars, piled into vans, standing on mopeds all with a maximum of noise, but good for the local religion – no alcohol, (David bought a T shirt and Maroc won 4-0). The bombed out restaurant still, ‘as is’ in the square, but all very pleasant if you like crowds – and we do.   We ate out at the stalls both nights but didn't quite get round to the sheep’s heads (half a head only 4 euro) or the brains, but a tasty meat stew.

The ‘souks’ were a bit of a disappointment after Fes etc as they were more bazaars for the multitude of tourists, although we did get talked into a ‘kilim’ to be sent home.  All these tourists are something new, often dressed to  reveal what we have come to see as ‘shocking’ – shoulders and knees! I guess that you can now fly Europe to Marrakesh on cheap flights (60 pounds return!) has a lot to do with it, especially at weekends.

We did visit the museum,Ben Youssef Medersa  and the Bahia Palace, all with some   fine mosaic, plasterwork and wooden ceilings etc but with first Grenada and Seville and now Morocco we are becoming somewhat hardened to such beautiful and detailed craftsmanship - shame. The courtyards are also so wonderfully tranquil spaces. The surprise and something different was the Majorelle gardens, a lovely architect designed garden of bamboo, trees, cacti, pools etc owned and maintained by Yves Saint Laurent.Very relaxing.

Moving on, we headed west for the Atlantic coast to a remote place called Sidi Kaouki. This little place off the beaten track is a haven for kite-boarders and of course plenty of wind. Lots of beach, a camp site where bread is delivered on a donkey at 9am, other sellers call with fish and cakes etc. Anyway our first swim in the Atlantic and experience of big beaches, horse and camel rides an option (no too old). Surprisingly the weather still relatively cool, (only 25 degrees!) and the water freezing.

Next up the coast Essaouira,  a fishing town where we parked overnight next to the very fishy port and line of fish restaurant stalls – plenty of aromatic ambiance. Very active port and we ate out at the stalls after intensive bargaining with with price and the number and quality of the fish - a moving target before your very eyes.

  North  again to Oualidia (David’s pick of the coast). Parked next to the beach, a lagoon or a surf beach to swim in, a beach kept immaculate by a team of cleaners etc (the King has an interest in reconditioning a palace of his grandfather here and needs to keep locals happy). A small beach based fishing fleet, lots of fish hawkers with fish in boxes behind their moped, fresh lobster grilled on charcoal behind the van for us, sole and sardines etc on the beach (all this takes a lot of bargaining) – but very tasty whatever the price paid (did we or did we not get a bargain?). Sundown drinks with a Moroccan who we met because he wore a NZ rugby hat – only a vague idea where NZ was, we often have to admit to being Australian because it just too hard to describe where little old Aotearoa is.

This West coast is a much more sophisticated domain than the interior even though we avoided the main modern towns of Casablanca and Rabat on our drive north.  We only motorwayed our way, passing lots of intensive agriculture but also some shanty town developments – not pretty. Lots of new coastal developments, most only half finished, golf courses etc.

  Two days at Moulay Bousselham, a very interesting place with a little fishing harbour,an ocean beach and a large lagoon famous for it’s bird life. A boat trip with local expert saw pink flamingos (great sight as they fly past in formation and land) as well as many other birds. A camp site park right on the waters edge and a good place to swim. Again as it was a Sunday lots of local colour, stalls, music, etc etc.

Last Moroccan night parked next to the Portuguese city walls, beside the fish market at the pleasant, relaxed and clean town of Asilah. A beach for a last swim, a meal out, and a promenade round with all the locals past stalls selling all sorts of treats, and a lively fish market still going at past 10pm.  We are going to miss this evening action.

 

Very few camper vans at this time of year. most come mainly from France ( a few from the UK) in the winter to park beside the sea farther south.

Our month in Morroco has been very enjoyable and relaxed except for the haggling  that has to accompany every purchase,but you get used to it. Almost everybody speaks good French (as well as Arabic & Berber) with many adding also English and some areas also  Spanish – they are talented linguists. Security is no concern, less so than in Spain, with guardians for almost every parking spot in town who guide you in and out for a half or one euro (so much better than a dumb parking meter). David’s daily bread is available always as a round flat loaf, sometimes a baguette at a cost of about 30 cents NZ. Alcohol is a strange subject, available at supermarkets and some liquor shops but most people are reluctant to be seen buying (it is always packaged in black opaque bags) and in all the places we visited we have only once had a glass of wine, it is not seen at cafes or restaurants. We have bought Moroccan beer (David’s lunch) and enjoyed their wine(our evening meal).

 

In all Morroco seems well set on a steady development. The communications network is impressive, electricity and water distribution are widespread. The king Mohammed VI passed a law in 2004 giving many rights to women and this July there will be a referendum on a new constitution with a more democratic sharing of power by the King. We of course have only seen the tourist spots, avoiding the big and more modern towns, plus the deep southern Western Sahara (advised not to visit by NZ Foreign Affairs) and anyway an area with few inhabitants and lots of desert.  Morocco is an incredible mix of the old and new. Our first 3 weeks travelling in the inland mountains and desert showed us much of the old. We had no idea of the amount of development and European influence as we moved up the coast towards Tanger, itself a modern bustling city. We are a bit reluctant to leave Morocco. It has been an easy, interesting and relaxing month of travel, but we are looking forward to exploring Portugal.