Friday, May 5, 2017

2017/2 Farewell France

35 Grenoble breakdown36 Grenoble breakdown53 French avenue

It was sad to finish our skiing time, knowing that we may never grace the slopes of Europe again. But never mind Spring has sprung seriously in the valleys and time to move on. So back to Grenoble with all the trees etc so green after the mountain snow. Life was made exciting there by a breakdown in the Casino Supermarket carpark. Stan stubbornly refused to start – it was getting late and we were due at the Phelipons’ for dinner. However our wonderful insurance (which is now refusing to insure us anymore because we are too old and not UK residents), has breakdown cover, so a simple phone call and within minutes a huge flashing truck appeared, followed by a little flashing car. Couldn’t get it started, so they hot wired it and we moved to their workshop for the night. No dinner out! During the night David had the idea of trying the spare key.  Hey presto – we had start up. Ordered a new key from Ford and continued on our travels – after dinner at the Phelipons the next night.

1 Lunch with Francois2 Lyon - Lunch with Brian and Margaret Page plus Brian and Anne Daynes.3 Lyon - Lunch with Brian and Margaret Page plus Brian and Anne Daynes. Pigs trotters4 Lyon - Lunch with Brian and Margaret Page plus Brian and Anne Daynes. Frog legs.

We then climbed up into the Vercors plateau to stay two days with Francois. As in our past visits Francois drove us all over the Vercors  from North to South.  The objective was to buy some Clairette de Die sparkling white wine from the producers. However in true French fashion the producers were at lunch = closed,  in the end it was bought from the local supermarket!

8  Lyon - Lunch with Brian and Margaret Page plus Brian and Anne Daynes.10 Lyon Chez Page. The Judas tree.16 Lyon View of the Confluence Museum17 Lyon Bridge by the Confluence Museum20 Lyon. Writing the blog with various aides. Chez Page.21 Lyon. Suppertime. Chez Page.

Next stop Lyon, on Good Friday, to see long time Grenoble friends Brian and Margaret Page in Lyon. They had organised a lunch with ex Grenoble climbing friend Brian Daynes on the Saturday, a visit to the very new and modern Museum of the Confluence (rivers Rhone & Saone) Sunday including another fine lunch, and drive around Lyon. A lovely weekend relaxing in their beautiful house and garden, alive with the joys of spring, enjoying Brian’s gastronomic delights including local delicacies of raviole (not ravioli) and quenelles.

22 Grenoble. Place Victor Hugo.24 Grenoble Fontaine. Night outside Chez Ford. Waiting for the keys to work!27 Grenoble. Lunch with the Bellicards28 Grenoble. Lunch with the Bellicards

Headed back to Grenoble for Stan’s annual checkup and service. As so often happens, nothing was easy. Service was fine, when trying to programme the new key they managed to deprogramme everything so we had no keys. Spent yet another night outside a caryard and had to be collected by Jean-Claude for lunch at their house at Bernin, just out of Grenoble. As always a fine meal prepared by Lawrence, Jean-Claude and Jocelynne’s daughter. Very French with many courses over several hours. A great catch-up with old friends and lots of reminiscing for David.

Finally got the phone call to say that the keys had been reprogrammed so it was all systems go again.

29 Aix Les Bains38  Parc Des Oiseaux. Near Lyon. Storks.42 Parc Des Oiseaux. Near Lyon.45  Parc Des Oiseaux. Near Lyon. Birds in Flight display.46  Parc Des Oiseaux. Near Lyon. Birds in Flight display.52  Parc Des Oiseaux. Near Lyon. Birds in Flight display.

 

Set off northwards and by chance came across the Parc des Oiseaux north of Lyon. Joanna is always keen on birds although really prefers them in the wild. However it was done very well. An amazing display of birds in flight that were much closer than they look in the photo! Joanna missed half of it because she was so busy ducking and hiding as they flew centimetres over our heads. Could feel the rush of wind from these enormous birds with enormous claws.

Continued a slow route north, basically following the Loire River and continuing our gastronomic tour, with meals out and sourcing the best of local delicacies such as andouillette, pied de porc, rillettes and rillons. Look them up! Oh boy are we going to miss this!

54 Julianas - Joanna's 40 year ago grape picking in the Beaujolais.57 Julianas - Joanna's 40 year ago grape picking in the Beaujolais.60 Julianas - Joanna's 40 year ago grape picking in the Beaujolais.61 Julianas - Joanna's 40 year ago grape picking in the Beaujolais.65 Julianas - Joanna's 40 year ago grape picking in the Beaujolais.66 Julianas - Joanna's 40 year ago grape picking in the Beaujolais.68 Julianas - Joanna's 40 year ago grape picking in the Beaujolais.70 Lunchtime71 Lunchtime

Also spent a couple of days in the Beaujolais district, hunting out the village of Julianas where Joanna picked grapes many (many) years ago. Didn’t recognise a thing. Think I was too exhausted  then or had drunk too much wine to take in a lot. The vines are so low to the ground. No wonder one of my few memories is my sore back. However it was lovely, had a coffee at the cafe, a wine at a cave. What more do you need?

73 Loire camping Melay74 Blowtorching the Creme Brulee75 Morning bread delivery72 Market

79 Loire Voie Verte81  Escargots82 Raviole83 Loire - Riding from Montrichard to Chenonceaux

Took in a few Chateaux as neither of us had visited Loire chateaux for many years ( 40 years for Joanna). Being very early in the season there were few people which makes chateau touring much more pleasant. We didn’t go to many. We easily get chateaued out these days. We had the bikes out by then and luckily Joanna’s hip coped with riding better than walking. So a few  very pleasant cycles along the river bank and memorable meals out.

85 Loire  Chenonceaux86 Loire  Chenonceaux89 Loire  Chenonceaux Diane's Garden101 Loire  Chenonceaux105 Azay le Rideau camping beside the chateau.106 Azay le Rideau107 Azay le Rideau

Through the picturesque troglydyte areas around Saumur and Angers we were looking for a late morning coffee on a day with a bitter wind but after ordering we noticed the ‘menu of the day’ and were immediately interested. Then when we saw the open fire inside we were seduced and enjoyed yet another memorable meal. Moving on we turned north to Le Mans. Managed to camp just below the old town and next morning headed up to visit the impressive cathedral. A splendid array of flying buttresses. A wander through the atmospheric old town and a huge market has left us with good memories of the city. Only thought 24 hour racing before!

121 Loire towards Saumur126 Loire - Candes. Lunch at Le Route d'Or. Pintade132 Chevre toasts a la Madelaine133 Hooked on his phone135  Le Mans cathedral and market131 Loire  Saumur. Chateau.

Finally back at Calais in time to stock up with French goodies (mostly wine and cheese) before the shops closed for 2 days over the Mayday long weekend. Did a daytrip along the coast between Calais and Boulogne. We’ve never done it properly before. Was charming and great views over the channel to the White Cliffs. Crowds of locals out enjoying the Mayday break.

140 Andouilette chez nous143 Our cups since 2007146 Cote d'Opal. Cap Gris Nez

Felt very sad on our last crossing but it was beautiful – calm, blue skies and the white cliffs showing clearly. However big excitement as we headed north up the M20 to see our new  van in a Motorhome sales yard at Cranham. Due to the fact that vehicle insurance is becoming almost impossible for us in the UK, this spanking new one is about to be shipped to NZ and should arrive shortly after we get back in mid-July.

Now safely back in Hastings with Maureen and lots of other extended family, staying here while their house in Tunbridge Wells is being renovated. Numbers are about to increase with the arrival of Tom and Rachel from Canada on Tuesday. They will take over Stan (they are young and can get basic insurance) for several months touring Europe.