France started as usual with a night on the dock at Calais and we introduced Sally (Joanna’s sister) to Moules frites at a local restaurant. We actually branched out and tried a new restaurant this year, mostly because it was freezing and the restaurant looked warm and cosy. Delicious as usual and we felt like we were back in France properly. Next day all the Calais stuff of stocking up the larder with French goodies, new gas bottles, a bit of shopping at Zara, sort out the internet and phone, “et voila” ready to go.
We made a beeline for Paris. One night stopover (an old favourite) in Forges les Eaux, a morning market and onwards. We left Stan in the campground in the Bois de Boulogne packed our bags and headed into town where we stayed in a charming old Airb&b apartment on the slopes of Montmartre. Owned by a ethno-musical academic so packed with unusual old books and instruments. A great position, just down the road from the Place du Tertre, where all the artists hang out. We were very pleased with our choice, once we had stocked up on loo paper. We explored Paris for the next 3 days, walking for miles and visiting favourite spots such as Sainte Chapelle, picnicking by the Seine. Hard to beat Paris in the springtime! Had a big night out at the Moulin Rouge. real tourist country but Joanna had never been. Was a great night. Got to bed about 2.30. Quite something for us!
The objective after Paris was to show Sally some of the walks in the Alpes which we so love. So headed south down the upper part of the Loire valley, one only Chateau, and then via Annecy with lots of road works and diversions, to Chamonix. Sally was lucky to get a cable car up to the Aiguille du Midi in good weather and next day we all managed the walk to the Lac Blanc. This is a fantastic walk from the top of a cable car with al the alpine peaks from Mont Blanc and the Aiguilles in a panorama. The walk was a bit tougher than we remembered and hard on Sally, but she soldiered on and it didn’t seem to discourage her. Saw marmots and ibex which always make the walk more worthwhile. We finished up retracing part of our trip from 2010, which we are always quite happy to do. Not so many walks, but lots of exploring. David and Joanna spent some time reminiscing and exploring old haunts from the Chamonix Valley in our youth. Spent a night at Argentiere (where Joanna spent a ski season), before heading on through the Mt Blanc tunnel to Italy. Glorio
us weather. We are so lucky.
Spent a few days pottering in the Gran Paradiso National Park. The old town of Cogne, way up the valley is very camper van friendly, always makes us feel better about a place. Were able to stock up on Italian goodies and spend a fortune on pewter and glass things. Reminds us that the price of spirits in Italy is so cheap it just encourages us for pre/post dinner drinks. Joanna bought stuff there in 2010 and determinedly hunted out the shop again.
Settled ourselves in a charming little campground just outside the village of
Valnontey. Sally’s legs had recovered, sort of, from Lac Blanc so she headed up the valley again with us. A long walk, but easier terrain. The wildflowers were just coming into their own, very distracting as every corner brought an even better display. David is also walking faster ever since Joanna found an article suggesting that walking slowly was a factor lowering your chances of surviving the next 5 years !!
Back into France via the Petit St Bernard pass – poor old Stan lurching round the hair pin bends since David doesn’t like to slow down too much and have to change down to first gear – all the pots and more importantly the bottles rattle. Mind you going over the annoying humps in the road at villages, which David doe not always see in time, is also a strain on our locker catches and packing – so far no damage.
Back in France we went up to Val d’Isere and another of our favourite camp sites with magnificent views al round. Another favourite walk, part way up the Col d’Iseran to enjoy a gourmet omelette lunch washed down with a bottle of rosé all while watching the marmots and seeing Ibex in the distance – fantastic. By then Sally was so enthused with the walking that she outfitted herself with flash North Face hiking boots, trousers, socks and a jazzy beanie. Thence over the Col d’ Iseran (2,770m altitude), coffee in Bonneval and down the valley to Grenoble, where we have arranged to meet David’s old friends this weekend.
It is now Friday the 26th June and we have just seen Sally off on the TGV to Paris whence she will continue to Ashford to be met by David’s sister – hopefully not delayed by the trouble with immigrants trying to reach the UK. Had a great meal out together last night at a local restaurant featuring specialities of the region, including calf’s head which Joanna and David enjoyed being avid consumers of most offal.
Once again we have enjoyed great kindness and hospitality from our friends here in Grenoble, Michel and Agnes Phelipon, Francois Ferrer-Leloe and the Bellicards – Jean-Claude, Jocelyne, Laurence and Hugo. We have had long, hot showers, washing all done, walks in the Vercors and long, gourmet, multi-course French meals. We feel very spoilt. Joanna’s extra French tuition has paid off and she was able to participate more fully in the table conversation. Inspiration to continue the classes.
Also here David who is always concerned about Stan’s health and for the first time for a long time David has been sitting in the back listening to the not nice noise from the rear axle. At the garage today we have just learnt that the rear wheel bearing need to be replaced urgently – more money. We are holed up in the McDonalds at the station using their Wi-Fi, contemplating the cost of new bearings and a change of plan to stay until the new bearing arrive on Tuesday – we hope – ah well, c’est la vie !!!

