2009/5 ITALIA

Who would have thought that two countries adjoining each other could be so different. For starters it took David several  days to find a bread shop and then it was hard and overcooked. He is gradually getting used to the fact that there will be no more French bread for some time and is getting used to hard focaccia.

We entered Italy over a mountain pass in the Alpes Maritime, it was very alpine and scenic, fields with lots of wild flowers in the long grass, and exciting to see a marmot when we stopped at the border. ( Not much of a border these days –all that really happens is you get a text from the local mobile phone provider).  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We spent the night in a little mountain village then on down to spend the day at Genoa. We were very proud to negotiate Stan through the narrow streets to a parking place right in the city centre. Genoa was OK, but the sudden change in temperature to a Mediterannean climate was a bit much for us, plus an attempted pickpocketing and we were glad to  move on towards the Cinque Terre.

We have made good use of the Navman,and getting better at it as we discover new and clever things to do. It’s smartest asset is taking us through winding town streets to a campervan parking address, we could never have found ourselves, at least without starting a divorce. It has lead us on a few silly routes but we are pretty good at over riding it. (It tried to take us through the centre of a Tuscan hilltown today!). It mucked us up a bit leading to the 5 Terre so we finished up at La Spezia which was not our plan – however it was probably a good decision as the camping place there was free, had all facilities and was guarded so we could relax about leaving Stan, and all our worldly goods for the day.

La Spezia was not a long weekend for a change but it was one of the first really sunny ones judging from the sunburn on the locals after a day at the beach, plus a marine fair with Amerigo Vespucci tall ship in port, lots of classic sailing boats, stalls,rowing races and a parade of reps from all major Italian ports in middle ages dress. We decided to start with a day trip on the boats calling in at the 5 terre places so as to get a view from the sea. A great day. Next day was Sunday for some of the walking between villages, first the railway station teaming with milling, chattering locals mostly out for a day at the beach, chaos but go with the flow.  We walked from from Monterosso along the cliff to Vernazza for a swim, then a train the Corniglia and a shorter walk to Manarola and a swim plus of course a drink at the cafe on the waterfront each time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Monday the next day, so much quieter on the train only lots of American students, and a few Kiwis on the walk, when we completed the missing bits of the four sectors finishing at Riomaggiore. We really enjoyed the whole experience and felt we had got to know the region, the paths, the trains and buses etc – very satisfying, lots of photos. The villages are very touristy, but still full of charm and the walks between were rigorous in the heat but gave us a close up view of local farming methods.

     

Time to move on South and a brief swing into Tuscany, repulsed by the parking regulations at San Gimignano, we drove down to Massa Maratima and found a great parking spot for Stan. Next day a walk all through the town without many tourists, the main square here is a very impressive place, drinks and the menu of the day at a cafe. At a local market, I, as always spent time drooling in front of the prosciutto and cheese stalls while Joanna bought scarves to decorate her hat, cover her shoulders in  churches etc.

Now the 24th June and we are taking a lay day in Pompeii after 4 days of intense sight seeing, this camper van site has all we camper vanners need, secure, pleasant site and owner, water, dumps facilities, and at last a bread shop round the corner. So its a day of washing, tidying, photo sort out, reading and the blog writing with use of the wifi at a computer shop down the road. Wifi has so far been hard to find apart from McDonalds which is often not working.  All this for E15 per night, more than our often E0, but less than our so far max of E18, and much better.  Based here we can use the frequent and cheap trains to Naples north and Sorrento south.

On our way South we have overnighted at some surprisingly good spots although chosen, as we do, on the basis of the camper parking from our book, plus internet info gathered before we left NZ. One such was Castel Gandolfo (not from the Lord of you know who) just south of Rome. Beautiful town square with the Pope’s summer residence, few tourists and a great view over the crater  Lake Albano way below.  

Otherwise a night at a seaside resort was not inspiring.  One of  an endless string of resorts along the coast north of Rome.  Boring beaches, mostly private with sun umbrellas etc and an obligatory small public section in the worst spot. Lots of mostly Italians sunning them selves, ladies of all shapes, sizes, and ages but all in bikinis.

Day one here was a day in the ruins of the city of Pompeii and a  it was certainly amazing, much more extensive than we had imagined. The city that was buried in 57AD was a town planner’s delight with arenas, theatres, baths, temples, and of course some impressive houses. However a long, hot day on uneven flag stones, no asphalt then it seems!

 

 

 

 

Day two to Naples, a Sunday, so street markets, where we bought cheap shirts and skirts etc. Yes it was dirty but really interesting with such contrasts in a small space.  On foot and on bus we explored the overcrowded, narrow-streeted, noisy, dirty, but interesting Spagnoli quarter, then down to the chic Chiaia area with shops such as Prada, Gucci etc etc. At the harbour, sun bathers on patches of dirty sand or on the huge boulders they use for breakwaters. A fascinating city and not, as we had heard, at all threatening. 

Day three was Sorrento and onto the Amalfi coast. Sorrento our first contact with tourism en masse. Sorrento a tourist base only and not the romantic spot David had imagined.  The bus round the coast overcrowded and on narrow winding roads. We thought Positano with houses and hotels way up the cliff and mountain face more interesting than Amalfi but both not so worth while as the Cinque Terre. After a while the endless rows of tourist shops makes all places look somewhat the same.

Day four was the Island of Capri on a ferry from Sorrento.  However in spite of the tourists the island is well planned for them and kept clean.We walked over from the main harbour to the city centre then down to the Piccolo port via the Krupp walkway for a swim and lunch.  Back up by bus and onto the other town on the island Anacapri.

 Stunning views, frightening roads, incredible passing skills, all a good  day out and coming home we even managed the train exchange running between platforms with the rest of he passengers.  As usual we leave the local station by traversing the rail tracks with the locals next to sign – do not traverse the rail tracks – this is Italy. 

We have got used to the traffic both to drive and to cross on foot.  They may be aggressive drivers but very tolerant – no road rage here, whatever stupid things others do, including English camper vans lost in ultra narrow streets. To cross the road do not assume right of way at crossing but drivers in the small towns will stop to let you cross anywhere and in the towns they stop if it looks like they might face a murder charge.

Where to from here, we are still looking at the map to decide how far south, the coast, the interior etc.

2009/4 La belle France

 

What was going to be a rapid traverse of France on the way to Italy has changed into a 10 day trip as we discovered that Stan had not had a cam belt change and at 100,000km should be done – either a one week wait for a garage in England or a garage in Grenoble on the 9th, so we are meandering South through the Loire in beautiful weather, lovely small towns, good food, friendly people, what more can man want. Stan is also in good shape and all systems go.

 

Our first objective was Monet’s house and garden Giverny beside the Seine river. Millions of people and the water garden in particular was stunning with the sunshine, lily pads on pond and ‘the’ bridge – lots of photos.

Beside the Loire river we didn’t ‘do’ the chateaux – done that, but just enjoyed the countryside, chateau gardens, villages and the food. Joanna made a sort of pilgrimage in search of the perfect ‘andouilette’- look it up for the contents! We finally discovered an andouilette master artisan in the village of St Gondon, a pretty overnight stop by the village pond, where he had every possible variety. Big, small, smoked, dried! Discovered the difference between andouille and andouilette, a fact that had always eluded me. Andouilette is 100% tripe and andouille only 33%.

 

Have spent much of our few days in the Loiret region following the canals – makes for good cafes and a sort of festive scene. Met up with some Kiwis in Castillon yesterday – Maurice and Denise from Waikanae, who figured in Bruce Ansley’s canal book. They are giving up the life style and going home so if anyone wants to buy a flash, steel, canal boat,there’s one going.

There seems to have been a market in every town we have visited so have been making the most of the local produce, artichokes, white asparagus, duck, andouilette of course, pates, cheeses – it is all so irresistible! We can never go out for a meal because we always have a fridge groaning with goodies.

Now in Grenoble, waiting for a new cam belt to be fitted. Have had a pleasant few days catching up with friends, Michel and Agnes Phelipon. David worked with Michel at Sogreah in Grenoble many years ago. Also he was in Lesotho for 2 years with us. Managed to coincide our arrival with a family celebration at their wonderful old converted farmhouse in the Vercors, above Grenoble. On the way back to Grenoble we drove through the Chartreuse, very alpine scenery and small ski stations, did

not drink any of the Chartreuse liqueur.  Also a flying visit to Aix les Bains where David spent his first year in France (1962), very pleasant, very smart due in no small part to the thermal cures which in France are paid for by the social security.  Saw a laying of wreaths to commemorate the 55 years from the defeat at the battle of Dien Ben Pu in Vietnam – takes one back a while in history. Last weekend the commemoration of the Normandy D day landing with Obama etc etc.  And now in France the questions arising from the loss of an Air France plane off Brazil.

All has been slower than anticipated, the banks are closed on Mondays, the museums on Tuesdays, and Stan has to have a change of water pump  -in stock = one more day.The good news is that the missing bag has been found arrived on the Tuesday (9th) evening from Heathrow via Frankfurt and Lyon.  However parts of the bag very wet and books,maps etc now out drying. Anyway a chance to enjoy Grenoble, a city that has made the most of a great location surrounded by mountains, lots of paved areas, people, cafes and  a very convenient and user friendly tram system. We have also had some time to explore the local supermarkets – the French are big on their hypermarches which are huge and have a mind boggling array of food and amazingly cheap wine.

Have picked up the van this afternoon and cross the alps into Italy tomorrow. The weather looks good so should be lots of good scenery.

 

 

  

 

 

 

SETTING OUT

Disembarking from the MS Ryndam we hired a car and set off on a 600 km 24 hour round trip to see the Rockies and spend

a night at Whistler the venue for the winter Olympics next year.  An interesting and varied view of the mountains both very green then very dry followed by a look and the very pleasant Whistler village with lifts directly from the village.  No doubt next year, with the Winter Olympics it would cost a lot more than we paid for a night.

The flight to London was marred by the non arrival of our third bag – it has never arrived and contained useful maps and Kiwi presents to hand out on the trip – no way we can replace.  All very annoying.

The very good news was after a train ride directly on landing we met the brother of the camper van vendors and yes there it was in the garden.  The brother Derek kindly gave us dinner and a bed, glad I think to see the van depart his back garden.

By the way van now named Stanley or  Stan the Van for short – why, the  van model is a Karmann ‘Davis’ with a tennis racket on the side, and through some convoluted train of thought we got to the principal NZ tennis courts venue in Auckland called ‘Stanley St’ tennis centre –  et voila, obvious isn’t it!

 

 

A week in England sorting out all things necessary based with my sister in Hastings.  The weather as usual in the UK was variable one day wet, windy and cold as only England can but finishing the week with brilliant sunny days. A long weekend and Hasting crowded with trippers on the beach, in the pubs, buying fish and chips, and getting sunburnt.

 

Exactly a week after arriving we were sailing away from the white cliffs of Dover on a flat calm sunny day for Calais.  What is extraordinary is we arrived on a long weekend – hence lots of people with the fantastic sunshine.  We have  managed to coincide with holiday weekends in Canada, US, UK and now in France.  We decided to see some of the Channel holiday beaches and ended up testing our driving skills with this new 6.3m home of ours.  Cars and people everywhere,  fairs, markets, beach crowds etc. New beaches such as Hardalot with exclusive housing behind the beach and ugly apartments on the beach front,   LeTouquet with it’s very elegant hotels and an air preserved from the rich English in the prewar  thirties.

  Thence the pretty fishing village of le Crotoy with huge crowds promenading the waterfront, hundreds of camper vans and a great market, it was all too much and we needed to escape.

Our first night actually sleeping in the van at Forges les Eaux on one of the ‘aires’ that France does so well at providing, water, waste disposal and electricity - all that a camper vanner needs for 5.7 Euro a night. Very pleasant, very typical town and we also road tested the bicycles that niece Vanessa dug out of her garage, some oil and adjustment and all go.