2017/3 Goodbye Stan

A busy time at Maureen's Hastings base with the arrival of Tom & Rachel from Vancouver. They stayed in Stan while we fitted into one of the 3 guest bedrooms, with niece Feralyn and her husband Jonathon, Imogen (15)  and the twins (11), however it worked well. Crowded evenings with all of us seated at the table in John’s atmospheric maritime dining room with a daily ‘highlight & lowlight’ as a  resume of everyone’s day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course Joanna and Jonathan bore the brunt of the cooking but some great meals washed down with plenty of French wine and cheese.  Tom’s birthday on the 15th was celebrated on Sunday the 14th with all David's nieces and nephews plus partners etc arriving for an afternoon.  Stan on the lawn, cricket, Pimms - true English summer scene. Katie’s birthday on the same day but she was travelling somewhere in Cuba.

Stan to be prepared, Tom & Rachel's high spec mountain bikes, ordered on the internet, to unpack and add some special extras.  They also bought second hand folding bikes from Lewes a fine South Downs town, but one already stolen in France.

Stan then hit the road with a shakedown trip with us on board across the Channel to Calais and then onto Paris to show the new owners the ropes (including toilet emptying etc).  Stayed a few days in the lovely Bois de Boulogne under the trees  next to the river watching rowers glide by, all in the sudden burst of hot weather. Paris is lucky to have such a fine recreation area so close to town with the Rolland Garos tennis stadium, children's park, woodland and even cricket pitches.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In town we visited the Montmartre both the top and the busy restaurant scene at the base. Other days included Arc de Triomphe, Champs Elysse, Sainte Chappelle, the river and for Joanna and David, Musee d’Orsay, the Impressionist art gallery, while Tom and Rachel went up the Eiffel Tower. We also enjoyed our first Uber rides,new car, very impressive service – recommended. Joanna and I said goodbye to Stan which left with its new owners, and we returned on the EuroStar to Paddington, then train to Gatwick to pick up an ‘oh so cheap’ rental car ($10/day) only after we had been subjected to a grilling on the risks of damage incurring terrible additional cost with we would be wise to cover by paying a daily amount several times the basic daily cost. We resisted and I am glad to say returned the ‘oh so cheap’ car (not the Fiat 500 bomb we were expecting but a brand new (1400 miles only)Suzuki Vitara) unmarked.

Thence a series of visits to old friends from David’s days in Stafford some 60 years ago, others from our time in Lesotho and Cairo, plus David’s cousin. Wonderful to catch up. Included was a few days staying in the Cotswolds near Cirencester in an area peppered with lakes which we had never even heard of. An interruption was some sad news of the sudden death of a friend’s daughter in London so we were able to attend a gathering in remembrance.  Joanna has now changed to Google with a new phone and we find the route finding, with hold ups (and there are plenty of them around London) just fine plus even being able to plan and follow bus routes in London – so much more interesting than the underground.

While traveling around we have made good use of our NZ Heritage membership allowing entry into the UK National Trust and Heritage houses, gardens and castles etc – a wonderful bargain.

With free entry even a visit near closing time is worth while. The weather has been kind to us and the English countryside so green and beautiful.  However the narrow lanes, overhanging trees and side banks were not always a pleasure  to Joanna - the only driver allowed.  In Hastings we have really got into the local scene and that focuses on the Old Town, close to Maureen's house. In the main two narrow character Old Town streets there are dozens (well more than a dozen anyway)of real pubs with craft real ales, atmosphere and music at weekends. Relax sitting outside down at the harbour (with a pint) or listening to music (with a pint), even sea shanties rendered by a group of hearty locals (with a pint). Since Joanna has had an unresolved problem with her hip/leg we have avoided some walking by using our bikes (Tom didn't want our ‘sit up and beg’ town bikes).  Easy to nip down to the pubs, buy fish, shop etc and ride along the waterfront to Bexhill watching all the holiday makers, students etc on group tours, etc.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course it was a time of great political ferment in the UK, after a referendum on Brexit last year that was unnecessary and lost followed this year by  a snap election that was not necessary and virtually lost. Difficult to get used to the UK newspapers which are so politically biased one way or the other with such venom directed at opponents. On several occasions Joanna has had to kick David's feet under the table to mute his unwelcome opinions. At the same time in France voted a landslide victory for a new party only a little over a year old and pro EU.

The return flight beckoned and time to clear up all the clothes and books etc we have accumulated at Maureen's ‘base camp’ over the 9  Stan years.  There was some concern at the Gulf States troubles isolating Qatar, however just a deviation to avoid overflying Egypt and all was well with a 16 hour flight Doha to Auckland offering plenty of time to sleep although arriving  before 4 am is not ideal.  House tenants all good and initial job restocking the house and trimming garden growth. Time to watch Lions/All Blacks and America Cup on telly

 

 

 

 

And so the end of our 9 yearly trips in Stan, last heard of in Austria after passing through France and Switzerland.  We managed to view our new ‘baby’ ( an Autotrail 632) in Essex.  She is now at sea and due in Auckland early July. And so a new campervan saga, but much closer to home.

Goodbye Stan, we did not imagine the purchase ‘sight unseen’ in 2009 would, each year, have taken us to so many corners of Europe - Morocco to Turkey to Estonia to Scotland and so much of France.

 

       David & Joanna

2017/2 Farewell France

It was sad to finish our skiing time, knowing that we may never grace the slopes of Europe again. But never mind Spring has sprung seriously in the valleys and time to move on. So back to Grenoble with all the trees etc so green after the mountain snow. Life was made exciting there by a breakdown in the Casino Supermarket carpark. Stan stubbornly refused to start – it was getting late and we were due at the Phelipons’ for dinner. However our wonderful insurance (which is now refusing to insure us anymore because we are too old and not UK residents), has breakdown cover, so a simple phone call and within minutes a huge flashing truck appeared, followed by a little flashing car. Couldn’t get it started, so they hot wired it and we moved to their workshop for the night. No dinner out! During the night David had the idea of trying the spare key.  Hey presto – we had start up. Ordered a new key from Ford and continued on our travels – after dinner at the Phelipons the next night.

We then climbed up into the Vercors plateau to stay two days with Francois. As in our past visits Francois drove us all over the Vercors  from North to South.  The objective was to buy some Clairette de Die sparkling white wine from the producers. However in true French fashion the producers were at lunch = closed,  in the end it was bought from the local supermarket!

Next stop Lyon, on Good Friday, to see long time Grenoble friends Brian and Margaret Page in Lyon. They had organised a lunch with ex Grenoble climbing friend Brian Daynes on the Saturday, a visit to the very new and modern Museum of the Confluence (rivers Rhone & Saone) Sunday including another fine lunch, and drive around Lyon. A lovely weekend relaxing in their beautiful house and garden, alive with the joys of spring, enjoying Brian’s gastronomic delights including local delicacies of raviole (not ravioli) and quenelles.

Headed back to Grenoble for Stan’s annual checkup and service. As so often happens, nothing was easy. Service was fine, when trying to programme the new key they managed to deprogramme everything so we had no keys. Spent yet another night outside a caryard and had to be collected by Jean-Claude for lunch at their house at Bernin, just out of Grenoble. As always a fine meal prepared by Lawrence, Jean-Claude and Jocelynne’s daughter. Very French with many courses over several hours. A great catch-up with old friends and lots of reminiscing for David.

Finally got the phone call to say that the keys had been reprogrammed so it was all systems go again.

 

Set off northwards and by chance came across the Parc des Oiseaux north of Lyon. Joanna is always keen on birds although really prefers them in the wild. However it was done very well. An amazing display of birds in flight that were much closer than they look in the photo! Joanna missed half of it because she was so busy ducking and hiding as they flew centimetres over our heads. Could feel the rush of wind from these enormous birds with enormous claws.

Continued a slow route north, basically following the Loire River and continuing our gastronomic tour, with meals out and sourcing the best of local delicacies such as andouillette, pied de porc, rillettes and rillons. Look them up! Oh boy are we going to miss this!

Also spent a couple of days in the Beaujolais district, hunting out the village of Julianas where Joanna picked grapes many (many) years ago. Didn’t recognise a thing. Think I was too exhausted  then or had drunk too much wine to take in a lot. The vines are so low to the ground. No wonder one of my few memories is my sore back. However it was lovely, had a coffee at the cafe, a wine at a cave. What more do you need?

Took in a few Chateaux as neither of us had visited Loire chateaux for many years ( 40 years for Joanna). Being very early in the season there were few people which makes chateau touring much more pleasant. We didn’t go to many. We easily get chateaued out these days. We had the bikes out by then and luckily Joanna’s hip coped with riding better than walking. So a few  very pleasant cycles along the river bank and memorable meals out.

Through the picturesque troglydyte areas around Saumur and Angers we were looking for a late morning coffee on a day with a bitter wind but after ordering we noticed the ‘menu of the day’ and were immediately interested. Then when we saw the open fire inside we were seduced and enjoyed yet another memorable meal. Moving on we turned north to Le Mans. Managed to camp just below the old town and next morning headed up to visit the impressive cathedral. A splendid array of flying buttresses. A wander through the atmospheric old town and a huge market has left us with good memories of the city. Only thought 24 hour racing before!

Finally back at Calais in time to stock up with French goodies (mostly wine and cheese) before the shops closed for 2 days over the Mayday long weekend. Did a daytrip along the coast between Calais and Boulogne. We’ve never done it properly before. Was charming and great views over the channel to the White Cliffs. Crowds of locals out enjoying the Mayday break.

Felt very sad on our last crossing but it was beautiful – calm, blue skies and the white cliffs showing clearly. However big excitement as we headed north up the M20 to see our new  van in a Motorhome sales yard at Cranham. Due to the fact that vehicle insurance is becoming almost impossible for us in the UK, this spanking new one is about to be shipped to NZ and should arrive shortly after we get back in mid-July.

Now safely back in Hastings with Maureen and lots of other extended family, staying here while their house in Tunbridge Wells is being renovated. Numbers are about to increase with the arrival of Tom and Rachel from Canada on Tuesday. They will take over Stan (they are young and can get basic insurance) for several months touring Europe.