2014/4 Sardinia West

Well we are now in Corsica and had intended to write the blog the night before we left Sardinia BUT a German couple who we have met several times on our travels called in with a bottle of limoncello………  

As we drove out of Cagliari, heading West, well North-West really, everything changed. Suddenly the beaches were all sunny, the sun umbrella sales people were out in force. The thousands of  little pink dots on the lagoons (stagnos – brilliant name) were indeed flamingos (Joanna taking a million photos – went on for days, trying to catch the little backwards shuffle they do to stir up the food, just like we do to locate the pipis at home. Actually, unbelievably considering the trouble we have gone to view flamingos  in past journeys, we became a bit ho hum about them and hardly bothered to turn our heads to look. The locals make nothing  of them, compared to storks in Northern Europe which have become a major tourist earner. There are so many, they are a bit like sparrows I suppose.

The West coast became much more beach orientated. The temperatures rocketed into the 30s. We managed to find

 

 

 

 

 

some wonderful stop-overs on, or overlooking great beaches. It seems that before the tourist influx in July no-one is too bothered. One night even met up with the Stan’s family – the Karmann camper van club from Germany, at Buggeru (not pronounced as you might think!). 

No more Nuraghic sites of which we have seen enough, but we did stop at  

 

 

 

 

Tharros, a Roman ruin on the coast.  Everywhere up the West coast there are Spanish watch towers reminding one of the battles between the Genoese and the Spanish which has left its influence in towns such as Alghero.  Also often alongside are the bunkers built to repulse an possible  invasion in 1943.

Drinking is of course one of our special areas of study and the variety of aperitifs - usually more or less bitter.  One Sardinian speciality is the Myrtle aperitif.   Dessert wines are also a Sardinian special but not so much appreciated by us. However we don’t hold back on the hearty reds and the rosés.

The roadside colour at this time of year is impressive with the Oleander bushes in full flower and on the hills the  

 

 

 

 

 

predominately rust coloured bushes.  The roads on the West coast have been less demanding than in the centre but still lots of climbing up and over the hills that separate the fine bays etc.

The fantastic clear water with colours of the rock and sea beds, are what it the West coast is about about. Some beaches

 

 

 

 

 

are sand but some are a fine granulated marble shimmering white in the sun.  To appreciate all theses beaches one needs transport as many are remote from the towns. At weekends, and no doubt when the tourists arrive, they are crowded with Italians out to maximise their tan on the with sun umbrella, or just standing in the shallow water chatting.  We bought our swimwear early on at very modest cost with briefs (Budgies) and swim shorts for David and Bikini for Joanna (everyone but almost everyone, regardless of shape is in a Bikini). The good news is there is often a shower available and a cafe on the beach for a coffee. Sometimes the beach cafe and shower water is awaiting the 1st of July when the parking charges kick in.  One remark is that there is absolutely no life in the rock pools in this part of the Med – a sad reflection of the overfishing perhaps.

Made our way along the south coast, some beaches and some coastal walking. Flamingos everywhere, sometimes right by our campsite. Explored the South-Western islands of Sant Antioco (by van) and San Pietro by bike which we took over for the day on the ferry. Quite remote and not much tourist development.

Some of the beaches were rather over rated in guide books and often good beaches were some distance from resorts. We have a much more limited tolerance of beaches than the Italians it seems. They seem happy to spend the entire day stretched out in the sun, with the odd stand around in the water for a while and a few games. They are also happy to pay exorbitant amounts of money to rent loungers and umbrellas. Not like us Kiwis. However everywhere the water is crystal clear. The Arutas beach South of Bosa was impressive with white granulated marble instead of sand. Looked wonderful but hard to walk in.

Bosa we enjoyed stopping over two nights in a car park by the beach.  Alghero was a welcome stop over in a camp and cycling along the waterfront to the old town. In general we have been lucky (or cunning) in finding places to stay the night without payment of paying very little with a couple of camps to catch up with the washing etc. La Pelosa beach near Stintino another memorable stop with stunning scenery.  We didn’t really  leave enough titime to explore the North-Western beaches as we had booked a passage to Corsica. Next time!

A disadvantage of the ‘off tourist season’ is that the restaurants are often either closed or empty without the ambiance we find necessary to enjoy a good meal. Our attempts at having a splurge on a great meal out have   not always been successful, but have had a few good ones, one special one at a little village called Marceddi half

 

 

 

 

 

way up the west coast at a little port on reclaimed land and now the producer of the island’s milk – but no cows to be seen – all in barns. The town looked like something out of the dusty Wild West, but hidden away we found this little gem and had a brilliant meal surrounded by noisy Italian families.

Joanna’s cooking has become increasingly Italian as time goes on. Gnocchi is the big craze this year, lots of olives, capers and anchovies. We are addicted to Pecorino(sheep) cheese, the more piquante the better. Also the turkey is delicious. Much more common than in NZ and presented in many ways. However we are back to the French food now. No problem with that. David is straight back into his baguette and pain chocolat every morning.

Over and out Corsica next.

David & Joanna (and Stan)

2014/3 Sardinia East

 

 

 

 

 

So two weeks in Sardinia  from the arrival at Olbia in the NE corner, to the capital Cagliari in the South via the centre and  some of the East coast.  Weather mixed with some strong winds and some heavy rain in the afternoons.     However we have enjoyed the varied scenery from the rocky north to the more fertile south.  Driving has been ‘challenging’ on the lesser roads we have chosen, good surface but very tight hairpins to access some of our walks or beautiful scenic roads like the 125 down the east coast. It is spectacular, one of the great drives of the many we have done in the last few years. Panoramas and precipitous drops at every bend. Not great for the vertigo!  However it seems motor bikes have followed us from Hastings to a rally at Cala Gonome.  There is nothing they love more than well sealed Italian designed roads snaking over the mountains, either coming round the bend ahead almost horizontal (will he make it ?), or the screech of a motor at 8,000 rpm as the last one of a group of 6 tries to pass in doubtful safety to catch the others; meanwhile Stan grinds on on low gear – we’ll make it – its just a matter of time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

So with the weather still a bit spring-like we have not been bathing (except one day at the mid point of a fairly strenuous walk) but have been making some great approx 4 hour walks.  No bikes (except David to find   morning bread). Walks

 

 

 

 

 

mostly in the central more mountainous area have included a summit in pine forest (Mount Limbara), a narrow and  very high cleft in the rocks at Gola Gorrupo), a strange mountain hideaway for ancient people on Mt Tiscali, and the best of all wending down through forest and amazing rock formations to Cala Goritze, a beach on the East coast. It has been good to complete these walks before the climate heats up.

Also included has been visits to sites of buildings and villages left by the Nuraghic peoples who lived in Sardinia between  2,000 and 800 BC - until the Romans arrived!!  Their round stone towers, and simple houses  built from massive stones are impressive. Today we visited the Cagliari museum to see their bronze and pottery and see the history of the trading by Phoenicians and others across the Mediterranean. Cork is a biggie here. Like Portugal  they are now trying to find more varied uses for the product. We drove through many forests of cork trees in the interior and even stretched ourselves culturally to visit a cork museum where we learnt all about making corks of different qualities in what appeared to be a very labour intensive process. The local wine is great but have to say that a couple of bottles have had plastic corks! Letting the side down a bit. Not so surprising when we learnt that the most expensive corks cost 1 euro 80, which is about the price of the wine that we buy.

In the NE we passed through the “Esmeralda Coast’ where planning is strictly controlled to make the whole area ‘nice’  for the rich and famous. Free camped the first night and were woken by the arrival of the cheeseman with a sumptuous variety of cheeses in the back of his van. So hard to choose – we wanted to hijack  the whole van. Wended our way cross country to the regional town of Arzachena where it was market day. Francophiles as we are, we have to   admit that it’s hard to beat an Italian market. They haven’t got into the flash stuff too much – it is all fantastic food, a variety of clothes and all sorts of hardware, gadget sort of stalls; a sort of David heaven. Plus wifi at the cafe and 1 euro espresso!

Thence the port of Palau and a stop in Pollo (a hide out for wind/kite surfers). You can see why the wind helps form some amazing rock formations, the most famous being Bear Rock.    After walks in the interior we headed to the East coast and we really enjoyed a stay at Cale Gonome with the little port (crowded in THE season apparently) where we hired an inflatable with an Australian couple to visit the bays along the coast to the South, fantastic water colour. One of the bays (Cala Goritze) we visited from the water and later walked down from a great little camp on the Golga Plateau. Really felt that we were in the real Sardinia, harmonicas playing in the cafe by night, cows, donkeys and pigs all making themselves at home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We have been impressed by all things Italian when one settles into their psyche, the rules about don’t park, camp etc etc are treated with a flexibility absent in England and as its the ‘low’ season for visitors no one worries – at least so far.  Plus no security concerns and we have managed to ‘free’ camp for most of the time only using one other official camp site (at Cale Gonome) besides this one.  We manage with the language, in fact we think we are pretty good at understanding all but speaking we get the basic message across at least. (That’s David talking, Joanna is hopeless, although improving a bit.)

So now in the big town, Cagliari (250k population) and an impressive layout with visit to cathedral and museum on the  hill and lots of restaurants and cafes down towards the port.  This camp site – no its not a camp site  - its a concrete parking area for up to a 100 camper vans only offering fresh water and emptying for you-know-what etc but with Wi-Fi (4 Euro for 24 hours). Great – time to get back in touch with the world. With little wifi we have had some difficulty following Nick’s progress with an operation on his shattered leg and 10 days in hospital. (Thank goodness for his wonderful flatmates and friends in Oamaru who have been taking care of him.)   Have had to resort to good old-fashioned phones.

Ferries to Corsica booked for the 19 th June and we plan to head up the East coast and enjoy more of the beaches, fishing villages and seafood now the weather is hotting up.