2011/8 Portugal

Had a wonderful crossing through the Straits of Gibraltar – calm, clear a wonderful view of The Rock – unlike on our way over. Never mind that we had to spend 6 hours waiting on the wharf for the ferry because they had the wrong time on our ticket – as the official said we had a house to wait in – no problem. We celebrated our arrival back in Europe with trips to Carrefour and Lidl, with a night in the Carrefour car park.

We binned Plan 1 of visiting Jerez and other sherry making towns – just too hot - and bought a few bottles at the supermarket instead. Not quite the same ambience, but the same outcome. David thinks we have an unhealthy relationship with hypermarkets – but they offer such a lot – not the least being air-conditioning. We always find something that we need/want, David bought a whole jamon today. Should last through till our trip next year! David notes that we go shopping with a food list but usually exit with an  item of clothing, Joanna’s response is that he should be lucky it’s at a supermarket and not from more upmarket venues. 

Plan 2 was a couple of days in the campground at Seville – lovely pool, wifi, bread in the morning, Carrefour down the road. We are taking the time to plan our route through Portugal because in our usual manner we haven’t thought about it up till  now.

Motorway to Portugal lined with Oleander in flower and fields of sunflowers. At the border we collected and attempted to digest lots of info on the beaches of the Algarve complete with book of beach photos and directions – off we set. First choice Tavira with a neat old town and a long beach on the ocean side of a lagoon as per most of the resorts on the eastern  end of the Algarve. Thence Olhao, a small port and on to Lagos (avoiding Faro and Albufeira). Here were the beaches David was looking for – small bays enclosed by cliffs where the weather has carved out all sorts of shapes, caves and isolated rock formations in the sea, beaches all quite close together. A pattern of a beach swim in the morning, lunches in town which included the famous fish stews and the salted  cod, egg and potato dish. Then a different beach in the late afternoon/evening.  The guide book warns of the tourist invasion but we must be too early (thankfully) and only a reasonable number to liven up the towns. Tourists mainly British, so all menus in English with inducements like happy hour large beers (taken) and ‘full English breakfasts’ etc (ignored).  

Have been noticing masses of salted cod in the shops since we were in southern France. It is really popular in Portugal so had to try it – delicious. We were also keen to try the hearty stews that are so famous here. In a small mountain cafe we spied a picture advertising a delicious looking stew, ordered it, consumed it with relish. We tried to find out what meat it was but there was no English spoken. With a few animal noises and pointing to parts of the body we discovered they were turkey gizzards. Not really what you would expect as the Dish of the Day. Have heard of them, but never really knew what they were. Still don’t, but they are delicious and taste a bit like tongue with texture.

Further west as the beaches get more remote and wild towards Sagres, the SW point of Portugal (and Europe). We stopped off at Burgau (not impressed) Salema (enjoyed), Ingrina (good) and Beliche. Up the west coast the beaches are wilder and remote allowing campervans to stop and stay wherever.  Our last stop was Odeceixe, a beautiful and till now unspoilt beach with ocean beach and lagoon.  Our overnight stops besides camping grounds have included some top beauty parks overlooking the beaches at Barril (Tavira), Senhora da Roche (Lagoa),Ingrina and Odeceixe. Our Algarve Beach Guide was a brilliant investment – photos clearly showed which was a rocky cove (for David) and which was a long stretch with miles of umbrellas and loungers which cost the earth. Kiwi to the core – we can’t bear to pay to use anything on the beach – except the restaurants of course. We still have our 5 euro umbrella from several years ago and beach mats. Have now invested in a little plastic screw device that digs deep in the sand to put umbrella into. Amazing. It is so wonderful we want lots more to take home, but can’t find them –of course! It’s interesting – total lack of interest in all the usual souvenirs – all we want are the plastic screw in the sand umbrella things and we can’t find them!!

   Through the marble towns of Estremoz, Vila Vicosa and Evora to Lisbon. Parked on the south bank with a ferry across to the main town. However day one not good – Joanna’s credit cards and spare van keys pick pocketed or lost somehow – our concern that it may have happened on the ferry and Stan the van would be gone by the time we had realised the loss and crossed back – but all is well, cards cancelled and now careful with remaining key and alarm remote.  Enjoyed the town with ferry, hop-on bus, vintage trams, ancient lifts and cable cars plus lots of walking.

North again up the coast via Obidos to visit the Batalha Abby and then at Tomar the Convento de Cristo the seat of the Knights Templar, which was very interesting with its exaggerated decoration of columns, windows etc with marine motifs (rope etc). There are so many castles and monasteries to see, we are just picking out a few.

Finally found quaint little villages and beautiful countryside in the Douro Valley – Port wine  country. Just stunning. We left Stan for the day and caught the train, heading downstream halfway to Porto. The train runs right along the riverside – tunnels, bridges, placid river, wonderful. The undulating hills all terraced and planted with grapes. To be recommended. Drove along some of the river next day and on seeing the price of Vintage Port at the wine tasting decided to do our usual tasting by buying at the supermarket

Moving north has become a bit of a hassle because they have a motorway payment system which involves hiring a box that you load money into for payment. Means we can’t use the motorways which normally is not a problem, but Portugal has invested HUGE amounts of EU money (hence its huge debt) and has neglected the other routes. Consequently the minor routes are long and tortuous, pretty but slow and tiring to drive.

Final couple of Portuguese nights in a camping ground with swimming pool (after a week in camper parking only)set high above the town of Guimaraes. A cable car 400m vertical down to the town only a few minutes away. Very pleasant town to wander round with lots of fine building, lots of granite, and a European Culture town 2012.

And so to Spain again.