2011/6 The Road to Marrakesh

After 2 nights in our little oasis at Meski we left in a state of exhaustion. The  campground had several souvenir shops and we spent a lot of time drinking tea and haggling over things we didn’t really want, plus Moroccan visitors to the Springs at the weekend . Actually it wasn’t that bad – we met Moroccans, French long-term tourists and a French expat couple running a restaurant isolated in the little village – strange choice. All very interesting. Also got a close-up look at a village and a tour of the local kasr (Old fortified village).

Moving into serious desert stuff now as we move south, rocky barren hills interspersed with densely populated and lush oases. The odd sand dune appearing, dust clouds and sand creeping across the road. The women becoming more and more shrouded, making us conscious of any bare skin showing. Joanna has tried to be sensitive to the local conventions, wearing long and loose clothing, especially in the small out of the way villages. Felt quite righteous until standing in front of a shop window realised that the skirt is quite see-through in the light and the local men have been getting an eyeful for days. David is in long trousers  - no shorts to be seen here except on the occasional tourist.

Made our way across the desert to Merzouga and the sand dunes of Erg Chebbi. Set up camp right on the edge of the dunes. Had been debating whether to do the ubiquitous camel ride across the dunes and night in a tent – Joanna not keen to sleep in the tent with scratchy blankets etc, David keen but a bit doubtful about hours on a camel with his dodgy hip/knee. Had it taken out of our hands when we were told we were too old for the camel trip - David devastated – here we were in the region where Lawrence of Arabia was filmed in 1964 – he had visions of fighting battles in the dunes (his father served in Palestine 1917) – and now all thwarted – too old. We were told we would be much better off with a 4WD. And so we were, had a great tour, traditional meal back at the camp and our own bed. Perfect. Woke up at dawn, poked our heads out the window to watch the sun come up on the dunes and straight back to sleep for a couple of hours. What’s more we even had a ride on a camel and got the photo!

Headed back to the Atlas mountains, resisting the fossil shops that line the road. Morocco is a great place for fossils but we are not much into them, but some people must be to keep all those shops in business. Marvelled at all the camels grazing in the  desert. What do they eat? What are they used for since the Algerian border was closed to cross Sahara traffic in 1994.  One of our great frustrations is stopping for a picnic. You think you are in the middle of nowhere but within a few minutes there are children or someone selling something you definitely don’t want, but you can’t convince them of that.

Lots of mud dwellings, we have seen them all, some grand as Kasbah’s (fortified mansion) some very basic, some new, some old and in ruins, and the mix often side by side.It does not take long for a non-maintained mud dwelling, whether a fortress or a hut, to fall to bits.  Past a few Berber tents with the women drawing water from the wells with very basic rope and winch. From a rocky plateau with nothing much to the horizon the road descents into a valley green as green with palms and little cultivated plots.

 

 

We drove up a couple of impressive rock gorges, first the Todra Gorge with towering rock faces enclosing a narrow road and stream. We were there on a Sunday when the place was alive with Moroccan tourists, families, school parties but a majority were the modern youth out to impress the opposite sex – a sign of the changing times in the country. The second the Dades Gorges – not so dramatic but a panorama of different rock formations and colours.

The weather has been somewhat of a surprise, much more cloud and some rain, even some dramatic thunder storms – all this not the norm for this time of the year. However the good news is that consequently it has not been so hot (just as well since Stan does not have aircon). Gets up to 35 during the day, but cooler nights making sleep easy.

On south with a night in a desert campsite at Skoura. Somewhat surreal with date palms, desert and snow-capped peaks in the background. Arrived at the crossroad of Ouazazate – decision whether to head east to the desert again at Zagora or west to Marrakech and the sea. Decided we had had enough of the desert and headed west. 

Met some English people in the campsite under the great kasbah of Ait Benhaddou. (Only the 2nd lot of Brits we have met in Morocco). Enjoyed a Pimms together  – they ignored the alcohol import restrictions – and compared notes. They assured us we could go on the road from Ait to Telouet, in the guide books as a 4 wheel drive track only, but anyway Stan made it no problem and it was fantastic. The scenery out of this world with a ribbon of green date palms and patchwork wheat fields, winding its way through parched, mountainous landscape and crumbling kasbahs. Round every corner was another photo. There are always people - even in the most remote spots, there is someone tending goats or a small wheat patch. Joanna can’t help feeling sorry for the wife with a load of hay on her back. Stopped at a village shop and bravely bought some chicken. It was cool and looked fresh. ( Had it last night and was delicious). 

The few rooms to survive  in the Telouet kasbah were fantastic but all deteriorating fast. The road was tortuous and combining that with the precipitous Tizi N’tichka pass, we were exhausted by the time we reached the outskirts of Marrakech.

Collapsed into a luxurious campsite and haven’t moved. Time for a break, with green grass, roses, olive and apricot trees and fresh baguettes and croissants delivered to the door in the morning. Unfortunately the 40 metre swimming pool is closed for repairs. Will face the big city tomorrow, over and out.