2009/4 La belle France

 

What was going to be a rapid traverse of France on the way to Italy has changed into a 10 day trip as we discovered that Stan had not had a cam belt change and at 100,000km should be done – either a one week wait for a garage in England or a garage in Grenoble on the 9th, so we are meandering South through the Loire in beautiful weather, lovely small towns, good food, friendly people, what more can man want. Stan is also in good shape and all systems go.

 

Our first objective was Monet’s house and garden Giverny beside the Seine river. Millions of people and the water garden in particular was stunning with the sunshine, lily pads on pond and ‘the’ bridge – lots of photos.

Beside the Loire river we didn’t ‘do’ the chateaux – done that, but just enjoyed the countryside, chateau gardens, villages and the food. Joanna made a sort of pilgrimage in search of the perfect ‘andouilette’- look it up for the contents! We finally discovered an andouilette master artisan in the village of St Gondon, a pretty overnight stop by the village pond, where he had every possible variety. Big, small, smoked, dried! Discovered the difference between andouille and andouilette, a fact that had always eluded me. Andouilette is 100% tripe and andouille only 33%.

 

Have spent much of our few days in the Loiret region following the canals – makes for good cafes and a sort of festive scene. Met up with some Kiwis in Castillon yesterday – Maurice and Denise from Waikanae, who figured in Bruce Ansley’s canal book. They are giving up the life style and going home so if anyone wants to buy a flash, steel, canal boat,there’s one going.

There seems to have been a market in every town we have visited so have been making the most of the local produce, artichokes, white asparagus, duck, andouilette of course, pates, cheeses – it is all so irresistible! We can never go out for a meal because we always have a fridge groaning with goodies.

Now in Grenoble, waiting for a new cam belt to be fitted. Have had a pleasant few days catching up with friends, Michel and Agnes Phelipon. David worked with Michel at Sogreah in Grenoble many years ago. Also he was in Lesotho for 2 years with us. Managed to coincide our arrival with a family celebration at their wonderful old converted farmhouse in the Vercors, above Grenoble. On the way back to Grenoble we drove through the Chartreuse, very alpine scenery and small ski stations, did

not drink any of the Chartreuse liqueur.  Also a flying visit to Aix les Bains where David spent his first year in France (1962), very pleasant, very smart due in no small part to the thermal cures which in France are paid for by the social security.  Saw a laying of wreaths to commemorate the 55 years from the defeat at the battle of Dien Ben Pu in Vietnam – takes one back a while in history. Last weekend the commemoration of the Normandy D day landing with Obama etc etc.  And now in France the questions arising from the loss of an Air France plane off Brazil.

All has been slower than anticipated, the banks are closed on Mondays, the museums on Tuesdays, and Stan has to have a change of water pump  -in stock = one more day.The good news is that the missing bag has been found arrived on the Tuesday (9th) evening from Heathrow via Frankfurt and Lyon.  However parts of the bag very wet and books,maps etc now out drying. Anyway a chance to enjoy Grenoble, a city that has made the most of a great location surrounded by mountains, lots of paved areas, people, cafes and  a very convenient and user friendly tram system. We have also had some time to explore the local supermarkets – the French are big on their hypermarches which are huge and have a mind boggling array of food and amazingly cheap wine.

Have picked up the van this afternoon and cross the alps into Italy tomorrow. The weather looks good so should be lots of good scenery.